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Cafeine

Cafeine is the umbrella banner for Xavier Denamur's restaurants and bars two of which are under the stewardship of Sé­bas­tien Bailleul and Re­bus  bought in 2012. It also provides information on the latest public statements made by Xavier Denamur founder of Les Vrais Etats Gé­né­raux de la Res­tau­ra­tion.

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France should be 'a paradise for food': How a passionate contrarian is fighting for tradition

Vendredi, Octobre 28, 2016


By Michelle Gagnon, CBC News Posted: oct 9 2016

Xavier Denamur is in the way. He's standing in the narrow doorway of his Paris restaurant, Les Philosophes, holding forth about bread — its sound, its smell, its look, the butter, the flour, everything.

"We should find bread like this everywhere in France, but we don't anymore," he says as waiters deke in and out, obviously practised at dancing around the man with a mouthful to say.

Denamur speaks quickly, endlessly actually, as if he might never get to the end of the story. And he may not, since what he talks about are the many crises of French cuisine.

He's not particularly troubled by criticism so often levelled at high cuisine about its lack of creativity or authenticity, but he is preoccupied with provenance.

In the last 10 years, the hyper-restaurateur has become an activist, auteur and documentarian.